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Fusing bottles with silkscreened labels
We've all had that cool bottle with the silk screened label that we thought would survive firing and...it didn't. Why do some silk screened labels burn off and some don't? To start with, there are 3 different types of silk screened labels:
- ACL - Applied Ceramic Label - screen printed labels using ceramic glazes and cured at 1200F to set the colors. ACL printing is the type of label that will survive lower temperature fusing. Grey Goose is an example of this printing.
- Silk Screen Printed - although all 3 of these methods are technically silk screened, this type is called Silk Screened Print to differentiate it from the others. This type of label is printed using brightly colored inks that are heat set or baked on at about 250-300 degrees. The ink burns off before slumping temperatures. Absolute Vodka bottles have this type of printing.
- UV Ink Printed - A relative newcomer in the industry, these inks are cured by UV light and need no heat. As far as I could tell in my research, this method is currently used on craft beer labels from small breweries. The ink burns off before slumping temperatures are reached.
Of these three printing methods, the only one that will survive kiln temperatures is ACL, even then, it is possible to burn off the printing. Here are some tips to help keep that cool print:
- Keep the temperature as low as possible. Often full fuse temperatures are too much, if you can use a slump firing, you're more likely to be successful.
- Fire printing side down. The printing is more likely to survive if it isn't directly exposed to high heat.
Here's one I recently did HobNob Wine Bottle Dish

If you have had success with slumping ACL bottles and would like to e-mail me the brand name, I'll compile them and publish a list. If you're willing to share a photo, that would be awesome too!
Thanks for reading, and, as always, let me know if you have questions, I'm happy to help!
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